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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 03:44pm - Sep 25,06
Posts: 266
Location: South Suburbs, IL

Post Posted: 09:21am - Jun 1,18 
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My livewell pump went out and I'm going to replace that pump this weekend. But while I'm working down in the bilge I'm thinking about replacing the bilge pump as well (still original on my 1994 smokercraft ultima). Currently I have a bilge switch at the steering wheel that turns the pump on/off. I am considering putting in an auto float if it will fit next to the pump. The pump is a mayfair proline 750gph. What are the advantages/ disadvantages of the auto float switch. The only disadvantage I see is if the float fails I have no way to run the pump immediately. However with the float I can turn the switch on when I get out on the water and not worry about the bilge.

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Salmon Unlimited Member
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Joined: 05:18pm - Sep 9,12
Posts: 1978
Location: South Elgin

Post Posted: 09:49am - Jun 1,18 
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On my boat the front and aft bilge are wired direct to the house battery as well as to switches. I can check to make sure they are working before each trip with the switches.

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Chitown-Angler
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Joined: 08:56am - Jun 23,05
Posts: 964
Location: Seneca

Post Posted: 11:31am - Jun 1,18 
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The one I have on my boat has a passive mode and active mode so you can turn it on if the float is not working or if you want to test it.

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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 03:44pm - Sep 25,06
Posts: 266
Location: South Suburbs, IL

Post Posted: 01:41pm - Jun 1,18 
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I think if I add the float I will replace the switch in the dash from a on/off to on/off/on (auto float). This way I can run the pump manually, turn off the pump and go with auto with the float.

I believe this is the proper way to wire it?

Image

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Salmon Unlimited Member
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Joined: 12:12pm - Feb 12,03
Posts: 2863
Location: Somewhere IL

Post Posted: 02:32pm - Jun 1,18 
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Quote:
The only disadvantage I see is if the float fails I have no way to run the pump immediately.


Float switches can fail/stick in the On position, hence the need for an off position on the switch.

Bilge switches with a float in the system are normally labeled Auto--Off--Manual.

Basically the same as your diagram.

If you have a master switch that kills all power to boat/helm switches, the power for the bilge switch/ float system must come directly from the battery( before the master switch) if you leave the boat in the water and want the auto bilge to work if there is a leak or rain overnight.

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