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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 09:10pm - Mar 17,11
Posts: 219
Location: Arlington Heights

Post Posted: 11:06am - Mar 17,18 
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I have a 16ft Sylvan sport troller with a 40 hp Suzuki 2 stroke. I am running a 40lb thrust trolling motor and a Garmin depth finder. I have a starting battery that is dedicated to the motor and then a deep cycle to power the trolling motor and all electronics. I find that after a few hours of fishing, the Garmin will turn itself off when I run the trolling motor at Max. I know I'm not drawing enough current for the Garmin at that point, question is what to do...should I buy another deep cycle and hook it up in parallel? 3 batteries just seems like a lot to put on a 16 ft. boat.

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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 04:24pm - Feb 17,03
Posts: 2070

Post Posted: 11:31am - Mar 17,18 
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Hook the Garmin to your starting battery. It doesn't draw that much juice.

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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 07:43pm - Nov 21,14
Posts: 602
Location: United States

Post Posted: 12:05pm - Mar 17,18 
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X2 on Bulldawg I always run accessories off the starting battery because it's recharging all the time you're running the motor.

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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 09:10pm - Mar 17,11
Posts: 219
Location: Arlington Heights

Post Posted: 01:01pm - Mar 17,18 
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Thanks guys, I will configure it that way.

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Chitown-Angler
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Joined: 01:32pm - Jun 19,04
Posts: 1426
Location: Joliet, Illinois

Post Posted: 08:25am - Mar 18,18 
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You may also want to consider a battery cut off switch to ensure there is no parasitic drain on your battery. Simple to install. The positive wire from your battery goes to one terminal on the switch, the remaining positive (commons) connections of any other accessories go to the other terminal. Negatives remain the same.

Lt.

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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 09:10pm - Mar 17,11
Posts: 219
Location: Arlington Heights

Post Posted: 07:08pm - Mar 18,18 
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Thanks LT, I'm gonna try and pick one up.

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Joined: 06:23pm - Apr 7,08
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Location: Naperville, IL __ Boston Whaler Conquest w/twin Mercs

Post Posted: 08:33pm - Mar 18,18 
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Don't hook to your starting battery. If you drain that down you are now stuck with a motor that wont start.

What I would do is use a ACR. Automatic Charging Relay. It goes between both your batteries. When your main motor is running and the voltage goes above 13v the ACR will open and connect your starting battery to your deep cycle. Then when you turn your motor off and voltage drops lower then 13v the circuit will close and isolate both batteries from each other.

Using a ACR not only will you charge your deep cycle when you are moving around on the main but in the event that you get to low on voltage on your deep cycle you just need to fire up your main to get it charged back up.

Also if you change out your starting battery with a say 31 series deep cycle you can then use a single charger hooked to either battery to keep both charged at home. The reason you would want to use 2 deep cycles is they are similar tech and a charger will know how best to charge them. If you have a starting and deep cycle a automatic charge may not be able to work properly and damage your battery. That said I have done with both ways and worked for me.

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Chitown-Angler
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Joined: 07:09pm - Nov 4,08
Posts: 433
Location: Bolingbrook, IL

Post Posted: 01:28pm - Mar 19,18 
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Many others have said it, but I don't know of a single person who runs their electronics off their deep cycle trolling battery. I have two graphs running off the cranking battery in my boat, one off the bow, one at the console. I have a brand new stereo and speakers running off the starting battery. I've sat at the beach with the boat off for 3-4 hours and the radio going, and one of the graphs on the entire time, and the starting battery has never failed to crank the motor over. It has never even sounded like it struggled to do so. The boat fired up that time first turn on the key, and always does. I also run two graphs on at all times when trolling with the trolling motor on the bow, also, and have never had those two graphs drain the cranking battery. Graphs draw very, very little power as far as I know.

Graphs are always supposed to be hooked to your starting battery, not your deep cycle battery, at least in smaller boats. The trolling motor running can, and does cause interference on your graphs if hooked that way, also.

Storm Warning: Graphs should never discharge a cranking battery down to completely dead. Like ever. If they do, then there's likely a short or something causing a drain on the cranking battery. And.... if your cranking battery does go dead, simply keep an adjustable wrench in the boat and swap the wires from the cranking battery to the trolling/deep cycle battery temporarily to crank the motor over. Once it starts, you can remove the wires from the deep cycle, put them back on the cranking battery, and the motor will begin charging it again. Big boats are likely quite a bit different than smaller boats when it comes to electronics and battery setups. If you have numerous graphs, radar, electric riggers, radios, and all sorts of other stuff drawing on your cranking battery, it may go dead. But just a graph or two on a small fishing boat like the OPs or mine will never (unless there's an issue in the wiring somewhere) cause a cranking battery to discharge completely.

Had this happen on the Illinois River last summer. Not sure why, but when I got to the launch and went to crank the motor, nothing happened. My boat is always plugged in charging in the garage using the on-board charging system. So it was odd.
I swapped the cables to my deep cycle, fired up the motor, left it running, and swapped the cables back. I then proceeded to go out for a boat ride for about 45 minutes running basically WOT. Brought the boat back to the launch and shut it off. Went to crank it up, and it cranked over just fine from the recharge when going for the boat ride. We then went about the rest of our day on the water as if nothing happened.

Never did figure out why that cranking battery got discharged to the point of not cranking over the outboard... but I've been out a dozen times since and haven't had a single issue with the cranking battery again.

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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 07:43pm - Nov 21,14
Posts: 602
Location: United States

Post Posted: 04:17pm - Mar 19,18 
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That happened to me pezdek I found that I left the key turned on from the last trip.

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Chitown-Angler
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Joined: 07:09pm - Nov 4,08
Posts: 433
Location: Bolingbrook, IL

Post Posted: 08:58pm - Mar 19,18 
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retired trucker wrote:
That happened to me pezdek I found that I left the key turned on from the last trip.


Actually, now that you mention that RT, my key does stick a little. Its very possible that's exactly what it was.

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Chitown-Angler
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Joined: 11:32am - Feb 15,08
Posts: 744
Location: Tinley Park

Post Posted: 04:12am - Mar 20,18 
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I have been having some similar problems in that my front unit was shutting off during crankup. And since that unit just crapped out on me and I replaced it with a Helix 10, I knew I had to fix my problem. Rather than replace my perfectly fine 2-year old, size 27 cranking battery with a 31, I decided to get a 2nd deep cycle battery just to run my fishfinders and Talon. I am also rewiring my fishfinders with 12 gauge wire. I should never have this issue again.

To the OP or anyone who might need a new battery, Sam's Club has some good sale for a few more days.

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