Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 15 posts ] 


Author
Search for:
Message

Offline
Salmon Unlimited Member
Salmon Unlimited Member
User avatar

Joined: 08:06am - Sep 18,06
Posts: 1773
Location: Montrose

Post Posted: 09:20am - Jan 30,18 
Top  
On my new-to-me-last-year boat, I'd like to add a switch at the helm to power on/off the downriggers. Currently, the downriggers (pre-2006 Canon Mag 10's) are connected directly to the battery. From the battery is 10 gauge wire to a busbar at the stern that then distributes power to the individual downrigger connections (pic below)

Image

My intention is to remove the connections for Port#2 and Starboard #2 since I only use 2 downriggers at the stern. That would leave me with 2 downriggers, which Canon tells me draw 8 amps each and have built-in 15 amp fuses.

My thoughts are to put a 30 amp inline fuse at the battery connection (recommended by Canon) and then find a 30-amp breaker/switch that I can (ideally) fit into the switch panel at my helm.

Obviously, my concern is that I don't want to burn the boat down...... Does this configuration sound right or am I missing something? I definitely appreciate any input provided. Thanks!

_________________
-----------------------------------------------------------
Dave
Big Ken
Formerly Anchor Management
Montrose Harbor
Channel 7
-----------------------------------------------------------

 Profile  

Offline
Chitown-Angler

Joined: 01:30pm - Feb 21,11
Posts: 218
Location: Around

Post Posted: 09:31am - Jan 30,18 
Top  
I have a blue sea systems 285 series 30A breaker at the battery and then 10's at both riggers because the auto shutoffs don't work on mine and i got tired of changing fuses on the water.

 Profile  

Offline
Sponsor
Sponsor
User avatar

Joined: 06:23pm - Apr 7,08
Posts: 3851
Location: Naperville, IL __ Boston Whaler Conquest w/twin Mercs

Post Posted: 09:39am - Jan 30,18 
Top  
You don't need the 30amp inline fuse.

_________________
Image
Image

 Profile  

Offline
Salmon Unlimited Member
Salmon Unlimited Member
User avatar

Joined: 08:41pm - Mar 23,08
Posts: 1350

Post Posted: 02:26pm - Jan 30,18 
Top  
For switches, mounts and accessories I use these guys. Plenty of options and they do their own laser engraving. You can pick a stock paddle or label it as you want with no upcharge.
https://otrattw.net/home.php

_________________
It's all about the fun! If you can't laugh at yourself, we'll do it for you.
Big Rods Fishing Team & Tacklebusters

 Profile  

Offline
Salmon Unlimited Member
Salmon Unlimited Member
User avatar

Joined: 05:18pm - Sep 9,12
Posts: 1995
Location: South Elgin

Post Posted: 04:31pm - Jan 30,18 
Top  
I just wired my riggers on my Grady and what I did was install a mini battery switch on each battery in the compartments beneath my transom. One of of these on each side,
Image
I also added a negative buss bar right next to it to connect the negative cables to. I ran 16" of 10 guage wire from one battery to one switch and buss bar, then connected the positive leads from my riggers to the switch, and the negative to the buss bar.

You want to keep your riggers' power supply as short as possible and a longer run from the battery to the switch mught require a larger guage wire. If it were me I would set it up for the future and size the wiring for the biggest motors available. You never know when you will want to get riggers with bigger motors. Right now I run 3 digitrolls and a mag 10A.

I can snap a pic of them installed later if you like.

 Profile  

Offline
Salmon Unlimited Member
Salmon Unlimited Member
User avatar

Joined: 05:18pm - Sep 9,12
Posts: 1995
Location: South Elgin

Post Posted: 04:38pm - Jan 30,18 
Top  
I did not add breakers either. The riggers have breakers built in.

 Profile  

Offline
Chitown-Angler

Joined: 07:27pm - Jun 23,13
Posts: 387
Location: Palos Park

Post Posted: 08:40pm - Jan 30,18 
Top  
The in line fuse close to the battery is recommended to be there for safety. The idea being if you have a run of wire of any length, without a fuse-able link, and have a dead short, the wire heats up and the insulation could start on fire, before the wire melts and breaks. The closer to the battery the fuse, the less the chance of you ever having a dead short, without a fuse-able link to stop the flow of current.

Depending on the size and complexity of the boat, the odds of having a dead short, unnoticed, will differ. Thus the importance of using the inline fuse, close to the battery is less or greater.

 Profile  

Offline
Chitown-Angler
User avatar

Joined: 09:41pm - Feb 16,03
Posts: 1618
Location: Des Plaines

Post Posted: 08:56pm - Jan 30,18 
Top  
sturgeonchaser wrote:
I have a blue sea systems 285 series 30A breaker at the battery and then 10's at both riggers because the auto shutoffs don't work on mine and i got tired of changing fuses on the water.


Are you using mono or braid?

_________________
*In pursute of Big Browns*

Ice Auger Blade Sharping

 Profile WWW  

Offline
Salmon Unlimited Member
Salmon Unlimited Member

Joined: 07:17pm - Jun 27,13
Posts: 519
Location: nort side

Post Posted: 05:09am - Jan 31,18 
Top  
Dave, you can use a relay, one for each rigger.
https://www.amazon.com/OLS-Waterproof-R ... elay&psc=1
This way you won't have to run heavy gauge wire all the way to your dash, also can use a small switch on your dash.
This set-up is used on race cars to run the electric fuel pump.

 Profile  

Offline
Sponsor
Sponsor
User avatar

Joined: 06:23pm - Apr 7,08
Posts: 3851
Location: Naperville, IL __ Boston Whaler Conquest w/twin Mercs

Post Posted: 08:49am - Jan 31,18 
Top  
The blue sea remote battery switches are really nice. Not cheap but nice.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7700/M ... 2V_DC_500A

_________________
Image
Image

 Profile  

Offline
Salmon Unlimited Member
Salmon Unlimited Member
User avatar

Joined: 08:06am - Sep 18,06
Posts: 1773
Location: Montrose

Post Posted: 09:57am - Jan 31,18 
Top  
Thanks for the help guys.

minnow wrote:
Dave, you can use a relay, one for each rigger.
https://www.amazon.com/OLS-Waterproof-R ... elay&psc=1
This way you won't have to run heavy gauge wire all the way to your dash, also can use a small switch on your dash.
This set-up is used on race cars to run the electric fuel pump.


I really like this idea because I can then use a standard dash switch to toggle on/off the relay. However, why would I need to get 1 per downrigger? Couldn't I get a relay like this (https://www.online-led-store.com/ols-12 ... eps131r-xx) that handles up to 30 Amps and put the relay between my in-line fuse off the battery and the stern busbar? Then I'd just have to run some 14 guage wire to the standard 20 amp dash switches. If the 30 Amp breaker I already purchased doesn't fit nicely on my dash, I think this sound like a solid plan B.

Storm Warning wrote:
The blue sea remote battery switches are really nice. Not cheap but nice.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7700/M ... 2V_DC_500A


I did look at those and thought they would definitely do the job. I figure they're overkill for what I'm trying to do with the downriggers. However, I'd also like to put a switch on my kicker's connection to the battery and this is the direction I'm leaning for that.

_________________
-----------------------------------------------------------
Dave
Big Ken
Formerly Anchor Management
Montrose Harbor
Channel 7
-----------------------------------------------------------

 Profile  

Offline
Salmon Unlimited Member
Salmon Unlimited Member
User avatar

Joined: 08:41pm - Mar 23,08
Posts: 1350

Post Posted: 02:03pm - Jan 31,18 
Top  
The relay idea is a good one. I've done this on several work trucks for lights - accessories ... ect.. Always used an inline fuse placed as close to battery as possible. A few people told me that was the right -
best way to do it. Never crossed idea over onto my boat but will not hesitate on my next upgrade.

I know some feel "why do you need two fuses" Windy city explained it well. The fuse by device will protect device but maybe not you. A few years ago I helped raise a boat that had caught on fire and sunk. Everyone got off unharmed but it was a scary story. I was told they had safty gear and plenty of fire extinguishers on board. They had used extinguishers twice. Both times they thought they had put out fire just to have it restart. Luckily help arived before third time. It was an electrical cause. They never turned off power - battery switch. (who would think of that when the boats on fire and your probably using your radio to call for help). So twice they put out a fire to have the red hot wires restart fire. The few extra bucks is a cheap way to help protect your property and guests.

_________________
It's all about the fun! If you can't laugh at yourself, we'll do it for you.
Big Rods Fishing Team & Tacklebusters

 Profile  

Offline
Salmon Unlimited Member
Salmon Unlimited Member

Joined: 07:17pm - Jun 27,13
Posts: 519
Location: nort side

Post Posted: 04:19pm - Jan 31,18 
Top  
I would go with 2 fuses, 2 relays, keep those guys on their own separate circuit to avoid trouble.You can hook up both relays to the same switch on your dash if that's your concern. With 1 fuse/relay, you blow the fuse you lose both riggers and you may not know for sure which one has the problem. I would use the ones on amazzon they're more water resistant.I would go with a small fuse panel, makes for a neater job
https://www.amazon.com/OLS-6-Way-Blade- ... fuse+panel
or similar

 Profile  

Offline
Salmon Unlimited Member
Salmon Unlimited Member
User avatar

Joined: 08:06am - Sep 18,06
Posts: 1773
Location: Montrose

Post Posted: 12:09pm - Mar 22,18 
Top  
minnow wrote:
I would go with 2 fuses, 2 relays, keep those guys on their own separate circuit to avoid trouble.You can hook up both relays to the same switch on your dash if that's your concern. With 1 fuse/relay, you blow the fuse you lose both riggers and you may not know for sure which one has the problem. I would use the ones on amazzon they're more water resistant.I would go with a small fuse panel, makes for a neater job
https://www.amazon.com/OLS-6-Way-Blade- ... fuse+panel
or similar


Thanks again for the input. This is exactly what I did. Now each downrigger has a separate connection to the battery with inline 30 Amp fuses at the battery and a relays that then connect to a single switch on my dash. I did modify the relays by replacing the 12 AWG wire with 10 AWG to keep the 30 amp circuit consistent but it was pretty simple after that. Now all of my downrigger wiring is waterproof and I have the ability to turn the power to them on/off with the flip of a switch. Additionally, if I ever upgrade my downriggers, I'm now setup with circuits that can handle the increased load. Thanks again.

_________________
-----------------------------------------------------------
Dave
Big Ken
Formerly Anchor Management
Montrose Harbor
Channel 7
-----------------------------------------------------------

 Profile  

Offline
Chitown-Angler
User avatar

Joined: 01:58am - Jul 3,05
Posts: 2497
Location: south chicago/NWindiana

Post Posted: 06:33am - Apr 11,18 
Top  
THERE IS AS MANY WAYS TO DO THIS AS THERE IS DIFFERENT BRANDS OF RIGGERS

FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME WITH THE RIGGERS AS FAR AS LOAD WIRE SIZE FUSING
then we can talk about best and cost effective way to get the job done rite with out spending any extra money

always remember when running wires length of wire requires heavier wire to carry loads

_________________
Frank aka honda cat
Master Captain USCG 50ton
Great lakes and In shore salt water
After its all said and done.... ITS ALL ABOUT THE FUN!

Image

 Profile WWW  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic Latest Topics  [ 15 posts ] 

Board index » The Tackle Box » Boats And Motors
Jump to:  


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum