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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 07:27pm - Jun 23,13
Posts: 320
Location: Palos Park

Post Posted: 08:22pm - Aug 9,17 
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I am putting together a new "skinny water" aluminum fishing boat. By skinny water I mostly mean it will never be used on the great lakes for trolling. Mostly on inland lakes, rivers, and for bowfishing.

Anyone have any tips, ideas, dos or don't that stand out from past years experiences?

I am going to rig the boat 100% myself as to avoid "issues" with mistakes or shortcuts taken.

I know I will be rigging a trolling motor, probably a Minn Kota Ullterra, shallow water anchor, probably a Minn Kota Talon 15', and considering Hummingbird sonar/electronics.

Thanks for any ideas anyone can offer!

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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 01:30pm - Feb 21,11
Posts: 173
Location: Around

Post Posted: 09:02pm - Aug 9,17 
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I rebuilt a 16 foot aluminum boat from the late 70's to fit my needs. I think the biggest don't would be skimping on hardware. Go stainless screws/bolts and aluminum rivets. Make sure whatever you mount has a backing plate behind it. Even just plywood works and will keep your equipment if it gets stressed from pulling out. I have 5 inch cleats with 8 inch by about 3 inch plywood blocks behind it and they don't flex. What type of boat will you be outfitting? I'll be able to point you in the right direction if I know what style of boat you have.

S.C.

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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 07:27pm - Jun 23,13
Posts: 320
Location: Palos Park

Post Posted: 09:15pm - Aug 9,17 
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I ordered a Sea Ark Procat 240 and going to power it with a Evinrude G2 250.
Considering using a power jack plate too.

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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 02:13pm - Jul 13,09
Posts: 402

Post Posted: 07:28am - Aug 10,17 
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A Sea Ark 240!!! Awesome boat!!!!! I had trouble finding thick enough wire for the trolling motor until I thought of sacrificing a set of jumper cables. They are just perfect and plenty heavy. In that direction I also used extension cords for wiring as you can get heavy wire with an extra protective sleeve over the wire. Good Luck!

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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 07:17pm - Aug 23,06
Posts: 416
Location: Bristol, TN

Post Posted: 07:32pm - Aug 10,17 
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When rigging, especially Aluminum i like to use a lot of HDPE panels, buy a sheet of it and cut it to size. Either through bolt or screw a panel to the wall then use that to mount all your equipment on. That way under your dash you will have 4 holes in your new boat holding a panel on that you put your couple dozen screws in for your fuse panel, black boxes, NMEA networks, ect. Then down the road when your switching out equipment you take the whole panel off, toss it, and have clean slate to work with and no extra holes in the boat.

Then the G2, make sure you have an Evinrude dealer with experience with G2 engines. G2 is a completely new rigging system that relies heavily on knowledge of NMEA and Evinrude digital systems. Plugging it all together is the easy part, knowing exactly what/how everything is going to work together then ordering the right components and being able to program it all, not as much. Calumet Marine would be a good reference there.

Zip tie guns are essential IMO. They make the job easy, consistent, and professional looking. Their is a wide variety of quality/pricing but the one i bought from Paladin seemed to be a good value for the dollar, it worked excellent for under $50. The one i got from HF was junk and didn't work. The one i use at work now from Hellerman Tyton was $200 because i needed more control over the tension adjustment, best one there is but not practical for the DIY.

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Chitown-Angler
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Joined: 01:58am - Jul 3,05
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Location: south chicago/NWindiana

Post Posted: 09:13pm - Aug 10,17 
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Got to love the new G-2 for sure the power steering and auto trim is nice but the torque is off the chart amazing !
Also very exciting G-2 available down to 150 soon to be lower HP ranges

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Frank aka honda cat
Master Captain USCG 50ton
Great lakes and In shore salt water
After its all said and done.... ITS ALL ABOUT THE FUN!

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Chitown-Angler
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Joined: 07:09pm - Nov 4,08
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Location: Bolingbrook, IL

Post Posted: 08:11am - Aug 11,17 
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The new Evinrudes are such nice looking motors.

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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 08:55am - Nov 20,08
Posts: 376
Location: Oak Forest

Post Posted: 10:53am - Aug 11,17 
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team danjer wrote:
A Sea Ark 240!!! Awesome boat!!!!! I had trouble finding thick enough wire for the trolling motor until I thought of sacrificing a set of jumper cables. They are just perfect and plenty heavy. In that direction I also used extension cords for wiring as you can get heavy wire with an extra protective sleeve over the wire. Good Luck!


If you're looking for heavy wire, ask for welding cable. My grandfather made jumper cables out of the stuff to jump garbage trucks. Best set I've ever seen.

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Joined: 08:41am - Aug 31,03
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Post Posted: 11:26am - Aug 11,17 
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Unless you will be running miles in really shallow water like Florida Bay or the Bahamian flats, or routinely crossing a shallow bar or harbor entrance at speed, don't bother with a jack plate. It would be just added cost and maintenance if you just need to occasionally maneuver through shallow water at low speeds. My Bro-in-law recently put one on our boat in the Keys but only because we have to cross two shallow spots getting in and out the canal off of Snake Creek that his place is on. Get a full high quality power pole not just a shallow water anchor. If you are going to use it in currents or tides, get two so the boat wont swing.

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Joined: 06:23pm - Apr 7,08
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Location: Naperville, IL __ Boston Whaler Conquest w/twin Mercs

Post Posted: 12:03pm - Aug 11,17 
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So you can have a rack made for the 350 to hold the boat and then still be able to tow the Ballistic behind so you can fish both skinny and offshore in Louisiana :)


Take a look at the transducer setups especially with the forward looking stuff. On a skinny water boat you don't want a transducer getting hung up on the bottom. The long transducers also don't do very well at faster speeds so you may need more then 1. I'm sure you know be careful mixing metals especially if you plan to splash it in salt. Aluminum will vibrate a lot. I drive a 25' Sea Ark towboat on the river and in small chop the whole boat will vibrate so nylon lock nuts are a must in 316 stainless. Shock absorbing seats would be really cool. You can beat the hell out of the boat in short chop but you will feel it unless you have a shock absorbing seat. I would shoot a message to Ralph Steiger. He seems to break off trolling motors often and might give some insight on how best to mount it.

Gonna be a cool boat.


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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 07:27pm - Jun 23,13
Posts: 320
Location: Palos Park

Post Posted: 04:18pm - Aug 11,17 
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Storm Warning wrote:
So you can have a rack made for the 350 to hold the boat and then still be able to tow the Ballistic behind so you can fish both skinny and offshore in Louisiana :)


Storm you had me laughing with that comment and the picture! :bigyuck

I don't think this one will see the salt, just skinny fresh water. I'll use the Billistic for the tuna!

Thanks all for the good info ! :thanks

The boat is pretty set up as I will receive it, I'll just be installing the motor, trolling motor, and electronics. It is wired with 6 gauge for the trolling motor so I don't see any worries about that.

I put a Panoptix on my Billistic (down and rear facing) and have mixed feelings so far. It might be better utilized on a trolling motor as i have seen where some people have pretty good success using it to an advantage this way.

SHT, I was considering 2 Talons, for the current pinning reason you mention.

Part of the reason for the jack plate was to push the motor back some. 6 or 8" can make a big difference in overall feel and ride. The boat has flotation pods and the ones I have been in (under powered) don't really plane, they just rise on top and go.

I have a lot of aluminum, stainless, and HDPE here, and a good way to cut it. I considered fabricating a custom boat, but didn't want to go through the brain damage or time to do so.

Oh, and the one I ordered is NOT the "amped" version. http://seaarkboats.com/accessories/view/276/procat-amped-package

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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 07:17pm - Aug 23,06
Posts: 416
Location: Bristol, TN

Post Posted: 06:14pm - Aug 11,17 
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The G-2 engine have 6 inches of setback built into the engine, it is generally not recommended to use over a 4 inch jack plate with them in most applications. This setback also means extra attention needs to be taken to the motor mounting height, the run much higher then other outboards.

You also most likely will not be able to complete the installation on the G2 yourself, EvDiag 6 must be used to set up the motor. Its the Evinrude dealer only diagnostic software.

Like i said buying the engine from a dealer who is able and willing to help you through the process would help a lot and avoid any expensive mistakes like buying an 8 inch jackplate.

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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 07:27pm - Jun 23,13
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Location: Palos Park

Post Posted: 02:10pm - Aug 12,17 
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HONDAM wrote:
The G-2 engine have 6 inches of setback built into the engine, it is generally not recommended to use over a 4 inch jack plate with them in most applications. This setback also means extra attention needs to be taken to the motor mounting height, the run much higher then other outboards.

You also most likely will not be able to complete the installation on the G2 yourself, EvDiag 6 must be used to set up the motor. Its the Evinrude dealer only diagnostic software.

Like i said buying the engine from a dealer who is able and willing to help you through the process would help a lot and avoid any expensive mistakes like buying an 8 inch jackplate.



Thanks for the opinions, I'll get with the engineers about the Jackplate distance, a 4" or 6" may be the way to go.

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