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Chitown-Angler
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Joined: 02:03pm - Dec 14,12
Posts: 944
Location: Chi-area

Post Posted: 01:49pm - Feb 6,18 
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Good Afternoon fellow CTAs-

I've (kind of) completed my first rod build, a 26" MHX power noodle, but need assistance with figuring out the issue with my flexcoat finish. After 48 hours the epoxy is still a little bit "tacky" when it touches my fingernail. I measured the flexcoat parts in a singular mixing cup using the FC syringes, and ensured a 1:1 ratio by weighing the measuring cup as I added the parts. I know the mixture was 1:1 down to the hundredth of a gram. I mixed the epoxy slowly and thoroughly, making sure to mix in any hardener or resin from the side of the cup, for about 3-4 minutes. I then let the mixture sit for a few minutes before applying. I heated the wraps with an alcohol lamp as I removed excess epoxy from the wraps. The rod sat for two days in a 65-70 degree room, but is still tacky.

Any rod builders out there, can you help with identifying what my issue may be? Also, is there a way to "save" the rod without stripping the guides, re-wrapping, and reapplying epoxy?

Thank You in advance for any input.

Pannie

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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 07:11pm - Jan 12,14
Posts: 380
Location: Fourchon, LA

Post Posted: 01:56pm - Feb 6,18 
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Give it more time. Also, try to get the room temp up above 80. Maybe a small space heater.

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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 05:28pm - Jul 11,06
Posts: 34

Post Posted: 02:44pm - Feb 6,18 
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Choupiquer's advice is good. You can also put another coat on and that should cure the 1st. The problem is almost certainly the mix. 65 is a little chill but not horrible. Flex coat is 1:1 by volume - not weight. If you fill the syringe let the bubbles rise out and then even the volumes you should be ok. Some people recommend using volumes over 2ml each so any diffs are small relative to the total but I get by with down to 1 ml each. The diff you had by using weight vs volume is probably pretty tiny but might have been a prob due to low volume.

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Chitown-Angler
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Joined: 02:03pm - Dec 14,12
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Location: Chi-area

Post Posted: 03:46pm - Feb 6,18 
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Thanks guys. I'll get the rod in a warmer environment for another day. If it doesn't harden I'll reapply another coat.

Jay,
Thanks for the bit on the 1:1 being volume rather than weight (duh). The weight was extremely close when I used the syringes, the few drops I added to even out the weight was probably my issue.

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Salmon Unlimited Member
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Joined: 06:16pm - Apr 22,13
Posts: 430
Location: Northside Chicago

Post Posted: 04:11pm - Feb 6,18 
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I do epoxy for a living , after 48 hrs it should be hard enough if it isn't the ratios were off.

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Chitown-Angler
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Joined: 02:03pm - Dec 14,12
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Location: Chi-area

Post Posted: 12:54pm - Feb 8,18 
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So, the added heat ended up working on getting the tackiness out of the first coat. I did go back over with a second coat of FC after the first hardened; I measured with the syringes, and the second coat was already less tacky than the first after 8 hours. Thanks for the replies guys.

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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 02:22pm - Feb 26,16
Posts: 139
Location: Northern IL

Post Posted: 02:41pm - Feb 8,18 
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this is a hobby that I have been wanting to get into for a while. Do you guys know of any rod building classes around here? Or want to show me some of the basics?

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Chitown-Angler
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Joined: 02:03pm - Dec 14,12
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Location: Chi-area

Post Posted: 04:11pm - Feb 8,18 
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Karl, Do it. I thought about building a rod for too long before biting the bullet. I can feel the addiction starting, I'm already planning my next two builds. The most costly item for me was the Flex Coat ($15), but the amount I got should last me for quite a few rod builds. The power noodle blank I got was so noodley at the tip that it was hard to get tight wraps on the last guide, I had to wrap it like it was a fly. I'll caution you to stay away from pac bay single foot fly guides if you're going to make an ice rod (and want to use fly guides), the feet were wider than my rod blank on the last two guides which made it harder to wrap effectively. Compared to the Recoil Components single foot fly guides, the Pac Bays are 0.1gram heavier. Which doesn't seem like much, but when you're talking a 0.04g guide (REC) vs a 0.14g guide (Pac Bay), its a big difference.

I know that Corens Rod and Reel has a bamboo flyrod class, but Eric doesn't offer any other rod building classes. Mudhole and FlexCoat websites have pretty good tutorials to get one started. If you're unsure about guide sizes, I'd suggest going to Corens to look at guides in person. I know Jim at the Salmon Shop has guides there for repairs too.

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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 05:28pm - Jul 11,06
Posts: 34

Post Posted: 10:42am - Feb 9,18 
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go for it. I agree with Pannie about the mudhole and flexcoat videos. I also recommend you check out rodbuilding.org lots of people on there looking to help beginners. if you want to get psyched up to see what is possible check out the nerbs rodbuilders page on facebook.

Coren's was always really helpful to me.

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Salmon Unlimited Member
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Joined: 08:41pm - Mar 23,08
Posts: 1345

Post Posted: 02:00pm - Feb 9,18 
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jayw wrote:
go for it. I agree with Pannie about the mudhole and flexcoat videos. I also recommend you check out rodbuilding.org lots of people on there looking to help beginners. if you want to get psyched up to see what is possible check out the nerbs rodbuilders page on facebook.

Coren's was always really helpful to me.


X2
Youtube has lots of helpfull videos. Nerbs. ( http://www.northeastrodbuilders.com) does some impressive stuff. I've been dealing with Coren's for over 15 years. I don't think there is a better shop around for rod building, repair, parts and advice.

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Chitown-Angler

Joined: 08:32pm - Feb 6,04
Posts: 473
Location: lake mich.

Post Posted: 06:02pm - Mar 1,18 
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this happened to me once I had the mix ratio off

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