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Post Posted: 09:15am - Dec 1,10 
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This one is for summer time kings and steelhead. The last two year I've run 2 rigger-2 diver and 2 boards ( 2 guys). I was thinking of adding two more boards and on days when my divers go dead putting out two more boards and pulling the divers. In low light conditions I'd stay with 2-2-2, but thinking for mid day or Steelhead it may be better to have 2 rigger and 4 boards out.

How would ya set up a 4 board spread---copper? lead? sectioned copper and lead?

Thanks for any help :respect

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Post Posted: 09:20am - Dec 1,10 
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I've fished 4 boards and it depends on what depth I'm hitting fish at. Last summer the 6 and 8 cores seem to be hot in July I'd set out the two 6's on the outside and the 2 8's on the inside. A bit later in the summer I scraped the 6's and added 10 cores. I simply moved the 8's to the inside and the 10's to the outside.

Segmented leadcore, although not my thing, might be the best option in seeking out those steelies.

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Post Posted: 09:38am - Dec 1,10 
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I like lead but copper can go deeper and use less line. One big reason I like lead is my small boat gets tossed around quite a bit and I think that the tossing has less of a impact on lead as it would if I ran copper. I think you should have at least 8 poles on your boat. 2 5 colors and 2 10 colors. 2 riggers, and 2 dipseys. run a 5 color, 10 color, 2 dipsys, and 2 riggers and let the fish tell you what they want. Keep in mind it can change through out the day so because one setup worked well for a hour if it slows for the next our start changing up again.

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Post Posted: 01:32pm - Dec 1,10 
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Not sure what your budget will allow, but if you do not already have a 2-color rig on your boat, that would be the #1 thing I would suggest. You can use it as an SWR on the rigger or run it behind a board for steelhead. I'm still trying to nail down the best combination of lead and copper for me, as well. In 2009, I had leadcores of 6-, 8-, 10-, and 12-colors. The 6 and 12 color rods did virtually nothing for me, while the 8 and 10 were decent. So in 2010, I kept the 8 and 10, and added a 200' copper and a 300' copper. However, since we ended up fishing shallower water in 2010, the coppers were almost never run and I ended up respooling another rod as a 5-color leadcore. For 2011, I will probably stay with leadcore of 5, 8 and 10, and copper of 200' and 300'. If the summer bite goes deep, I will have the coppers and if it stays shallow (relatively speaking), I will have the leadcore.

One thing I do a little different, though, is I almost never pull all my divers. Even if they are not working, the wire diver stays. That stick takes a higher percentage of larger kings for me than any other rod. Even if it only gets hit once per day, it is usually the best fish of the day.

Finally, I am not a big fan of sectioning lines. Too many knots gives too many failure points and tackle never seems to fail on the small fish. Just my opinion, so if it works for you, go for it! Good Luck!

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Post Posted: 02:17pm - Dec 1,10 
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Instead of more rods(space is a premium on my 19 ft.) we bring a reel box. Various lead lengths and an extra copper,adjust to what the fish want and allow us to fish high or deep even changing as the bite changes.Cabelas has inexpensive trolling reels that function well with leadcore.We run 4 boards with lead often,2 and 5 outside 8 and 10 inside.In the dark ,less turns and troll with the wind for fewer problems.

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Post Posted: 03:35pm - Dec 1,10 
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I would be reluctant to remove the power pro dipsey divers. They're consistent producers and can be changed over to flatlines if need be. They also can be changed over to run torpedo divers. Torpedo's can be run behind a planer board or off the back of the boat.

The only constant on Lake Michigan and in Salmon fishing is that you can expect change. Keep in contact with the people on this board, especially the one's who fish the same water as you do, to find out where the fish are (or aren't) and be ready to try things you didn't try the year before.

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Post Posted: 01:47pm - Dec 2,10 
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I think you are making a good move by adding 2 more rods. I often fire the riggers when things slow down and that act alone causes more bites even if I don't add anything to the spread. I usually have 4-8 boards running at all times and I think the best all around producer is my 100 copper + 4 colors of lead. I always add lead after my copper to allow the bait to track better behind the board and prevent MOST tangles. The rig I mentioned above is about the equivalent of a 10 color LC. This year the 75 and 50' coppers were better because as Jerry said, fish were in close most of the year. Over the years, though the 100 and 150 have been studs. It is pretty easy to adjust by removing some of the copper if you see that the deeper rigs are working better. Also don't forget that you can always let more leader out to effectively get a shallower designed rig to run deeper. We have managed to get a 5 color LC rig to rub the bottom in 70 FOW!

I guess I would recommend a large reel with a 50 copper + 4 colors, and another with 75'copper plus 4 colors if I were only getting 2. Put plenty of backing on so you can send them further back to get them deeper when you eant to. use at least a Tekota 700, but I'd get the 800-- best reel around for pulling this stuff--last forever, too.

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Post Posted: 05:50pm - Dec 4,10 
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What I read is that you are not running lead core, that is a must. You can see the posts that everyone runs some, from 2-3 colors on riggers to 5 to 12 on boards. The key here is getting the bait awayt from the boat.

Another must is flurocarbon leaders, I didn't beleive it, unitl I changed mid trip and then started catching fish. The water is so clear now that the stealthier the presentation the better.

Experiment, Start with one lead down the middle, it will stay out of the way, your fishg count will go up and then you will run more. Mike hit is on the head, down riggers are easy, but you may be cheating yourself of lead cores that will be catching the fish.

Also, always good to have at least one dipsey out, again use more presentations, you will get more fish.

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Post Posted: 05:54pm - Dec 4,10 
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For a 4 board lead spread, I would go longer leads, 8 to 10 of the back, one each side, and then 4 to 6 on the sides, less chance on tangles on the turns.

andyg

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Post Posted: 09:02pm - Dec 10,10 
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On The Salmon Hunter in Full spread mode we would run 3 boards on each side....farthest board outside would be weighted with some keel weights or just as light lines, our second boards would be a 6 CLR lead on one side and a 8CLR lead on the other, our inner boards would usually be our FC leads....Food for thought we produced many fish with both the 6 and 8 clr leads this year

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Post Posted: 11:36pm - Jan 13,11 
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Mike (or anyone), How do you join the copper and leadcore? Thanks, -- Bud

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Post Posted: 01:03am - Jan 14,11 
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I use a 20ft. piece of 20lb. test tie an Albright knot to the copper, then a Willis knot to the lead core. On some of my set ups I use a small size 8 spro swivel instead of the Albright knot, it goes through the guides easier.

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Post Posted: 09:00am - Jan 14,11 
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One other Q. Mike said to use 4 colors but would 2 (a la SWR) be just as effective?

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Post Posted: 09:08am - Jan 14,11 
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papa d

I posted this elsewhere, but Capt. Mike is giving a seminar on leads and coppers and will cover running multiple lines per side of the boat. As far as what to run, let the bites dictate what they want. But, for a typical summer pattern, in the morning before sunrise, we start with downriggers and dipseys. If we run leads and coppers its usually only one per side to avoid a mess in the dark. As the sun rises we'll start putting out more leads/coppers and begin removing riggers and dipseys. If fishing sunset, reverse the above, start with leads/coppers and move to dipseys and riggers as the sun sets.

For running only a couple of lines, I strongly recommend sidedivers over regular dipseys. With slides you have the option of setting just like regular divers, just a few feet in front of the lure, but you have the option of setting them way out in front of the lure, with as much stretch as you want.

Seminar :
Sunday March 6 Cabela's in Hoffman Estates is having free Lake Michigan seminars and product booths, etc. Capt. Mike Fuys of Manipulator will be doing a seminar focused on copper and lead presentations. Cabela's has not given the exact seminar time yet but it we be posted when it is planned. He will show rigging for all lead, all copper and copper to lead combos that actually run the best. Presentations using in line boards as well as running 4 or 5 per side off of ski boards will be covered too.

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Post Posted: 09:17am - Jan 14,11 
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Joining the copper to the lead uses an Albright knot. Remove a small piece of lead from the dacron just like you would to do a Willis knot. Then use the dacron with the lead removed as you would the lighter line in the Albright. You wrap the dacron around and through the copper.

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Post Posted: 10:55am - Jan 14,11 
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First.. thanks to everyone that responded. I took a bit of knowledge from everyone. My original thought was to add two more rods and reels to the boat, but decide that with limited space and budget to add just one more large capacity reel and use a smaller reel that I have for a 3 color Lead core. On two of the larger reels I put 45# copper and 3.3 colors of lead and sectioned the copper. I know this may increase the chance of line/knot failure, but it gives me more versatility with depth. I put 12' of 60# braid between the copper sections so I can clip the board on and the first 10' is braid from the board to the rod tip. I ran this splice on a 230//170 copper last year and didn't have a problem with the copper between the rod and board dipping/sagging into the waves. Never out in any big waves with my small boat. The third large capacity reel I made into a 5-- section--7 color lead core.

So this is what it looks like for depth options with a 2 to 4 board set

3 color lead..........................................15'

5----7 lead core....................................25' or 35'

60 copper----60 copper and 3 color.............30' or 45'

60 copper----90 copper and 3 color.............40' or 55'

Also have 2,3,and 4 oz. dive bombs that can be added to go deeper on any of the 4 coppers or lead core.

I used the haywire twist/shrink tube with a swivel for the copper
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=46523

Dale

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Post Posted: 12:28pm - Jan 14,11 
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Dale, How did the copper/leadcore combo's produce for you? I've only been running lead and was going to add copper this year but the lead/copper combo sounds interesting.

-- Bud

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Post Posted: 12:29pm - Jan 14,11 
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cduced wrote:
Dale, How did the copper/leadcore combo's produce for you? I've only been running lead and was going to add copper this year but the lead/copper combo sounds interesting.

BTW, I didn't realize this thread was from last year so sorry for digging it up. -- Bud


No reason to apologize. It is a good thread with plenty of of great info.

Tom.

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Post Posted: 01:32pm - Jan 14,11 
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cduced wrote:
Dale, How did the copper/leadcore combo's produce for you? I've only been running lead and was going to add copper this year but the lead/copper combo sounds interesting.

-- Bud


Last year was the first year I ran a copper 60/170- 3 color. I didn't get to use it much because the fish were in close/shallow most of the year. I ended up putting a two color lead and a dive bomb on the other board when we were in shallow. The year before I ran two, 8-10 sectioned lead cores, but I felt this limited me to the 40 to 50' depths. Like most said, be ready to change. I hope that this year if the fish go deeper, I'll be able to let out the last 60' on the coppers and drop the rig another 15' or all out and more backing for even more depth.

Another thing I'll try this year is to keep record. :oops: I want to collect note for... HITS PER RUNNING TIME.. on baits, Time of day, weather and time of year, ect. This should help, because I can't remember nuttin.. :?

Dale

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Post Posted: 09:38pm - Jan 14,11 
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If your fishing early morning, you need those divers out. as the day progress, it ok to pull the divers and add two more long lines. if you pull your divers, then you should run a flasher/fly on your deep rigger to bring the fish in/up.

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